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The Music Scene in Seville


The live music scene has picked up in Sevilla since I first visited in 1989. While there's always been flamenco there hasn't been much in the way of other acts. And while things are improving you'll see the music scene is lacking a little in Sevilla. Still, if you know the places to go you can always catch a live show. As for the bigger name acts a few come along every now and then, but most skip Sevilla and head to Granada, Málaga and Jerez. You'll find that's the case for many of the listings I have below for the bigger acts. But maybe a visit, a few sights and a hotel room can help you pack more into a trip to see someone you like.

 

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The best place to check for new music is El Giraldillo, free in many locations (Tourist Office) and also online. They have listings for many bars and cover the larger acts who come to town as well as events in Granada, Córdoba and other nearby cities. Yuzin also has a good listing of shows, mainly in Granada and Sevilla, and can be found in various bars around Sevilla.

In Larger Venues (Andalucia)

4th Black Music Festival 2005
Location: Palacio Congresos/Industrial Copera (Granada)
Dates: 7, 12 , 20 April
Web: musiserv.com

The closest stop to Sevilla will be in Granada for three dates in April. I'm not sure why they call this a festival, as it is a series of three concerts over three weeks, but there are good acts to catch: Chuck Berry (7 April), Billy Preston (14 April) and Incognito (April 20). There is sparese information on the above website and some confusing instructions to learn more about the scheduled events.



REM
Location: Nuevo Estadio los Carmenes (Granada)
Dates: 25 May
Web: musiserv.com

REM made a stop in Madrid and Barcelona the first time around. There were plenty of people who had problems getting tickets as promised after online pre-sales failed. This time they plan four stops, with only Granada being the first date finalized. Will they make it to Seville as well? I doubt it, so it may be the best chance to see them down south.

More places where you can regularly catch a good show are below but I don't keep up regularly with the schedule of all of them. In many of the bars there's no cover - just pay for your drinks! In some of the smaller concert halls expect anywhere from 6-20€ depending on the show. More recommendations to come soon as I spend a few late nights out looking for the music scene:

Bars

El Cafetal
(Avda Ciudad Jardin, 5)
A little further out and now in their tenth year of carrying live acts.


El Perro Andaluz
(Santa Catalina - c/Bustos Tavera, 11)
Rock, blues, flamenco, country-rock, reggae - they do a little of everything in the recently renovated local. Nice bar frequented by local actors and artists in the heart of Santa Catalina.

El Hobbit
(Close to the Encarnación - c/Regina)

Located a few blocks behind the Plaza de Encarnación you'll find El Hobbit on a street otherwise populated by stores. Thursday's are jazz nights, Saturdays usually folk night. Blues and rock almost every week. Pool tables in the back as well as internet access and of course, a bar!

Cafe Lisboa
(Alfalfa/Santa Catalina - c/Alhondiga)

Another recent renovation upgraded the look a little. Blues, folk and other acts.

La Carboneria
(Santa Cruz - c/Levies)

More flamenco than anything else, but you can find other acts in both the front and back room. This bar is famous and frequented by tourists as well as Spaniards. The front room often houses works by local artists. In the summer the back patio is a cool place to be. In the winter the front room with two fireplaces offers a cozy place to warm up.

Jazz Corner
(Buhaira - c/ Juan Antonio Cavestany)

Jazz as Lisa Simpson would like - the "saxamaphone". But it doesn't stop there, so stop by and check out what they've got going.

La Buena Estrella
(Alameda - c/Trajano , 51)
More jazz in Alameda with weekly jam sessions.

Cafe Naima
(Alameda - c/Conde de Barajas, 2)
Another place in the Alameda to catch live jazz from time to time.

Pub Taifa
(Centro - Plaza Gavidia)
Live jazz and blues on Friday and Saturday nights.

Nu Yor
(Centro - c/Marques de Parada)

On weekends there's live Cuban music, other nights you can enjoy salsa, reggae or flamenco while sipping a mojito at the bar. The crowd gets younger the minute the band starts playing.

Azucar de Cuba
(Centro - Paseo de Colon)

Right before the bridge to Los Remedios it's another great place to take in some live Cuban music, sip on a daiquiri and smoke a cuban cigar. Dinner and lunch is also served - an authentic Cuban dining experience.

Small "Concert" Halls

Sala Fun Club
(Alameda)
Local, regional and larger acts. Hip-hop to metal, funk and alternative.

Weekend
(Centro/Torneo - c/Torneo)
As well a good mix of acts - neighbors have complained for years about the noise, so they put on some loud shows.

Sala Salvation
Heavy to alternative and a little of everything else.

Casas Ocupadas
Alternative music - some punk, some rock.

Sala Metropol
(La Florida)
A bar/discoteca with live shows on Thursdays, often blues and rock with some cover bands.

 

Estadio Olimpico
(across the Puente del Alamillo)

Large acts have made their way here, including Mana. A first rate outdoor venue where they hope to one day host the Olympics, if the heat ever dies down.

El Palenque
(La Cartuja)

Closer to the center of Sevilla than the Estadio Olimpico and an indoor place for off weather nights. El Palenque hosts international and national acts frequently.

Teatro Central
(La Cartuja)
A mix of the arts with mainly theatre and music performances. Generally plenty of flamenco and other contemporary music each month.

Teatro Lope de Vega
(Arenal)
Aside from opera, theatre and the symphony you'll find an occasional flamenco performance by some of the best artists in the world. Very convenient to the center.

Tablaos
Tablaos are where you'll see the most professional and quality shows. Artists are can range from the nationally to internationally known, and the dress and costumes are superb. Many shows offer dinner or just a drink, and the prices will be the most expensive for enjoying flamenco. While some people and guide books comment on these as tourist traps there is plenty to enjoy - for a price - and some of the best quality shows take place in tablaos. As I recommend for most of them, skip the dinner and take the drink only option.

El Arenal (Arenal - c/Rodo, 7)
A tablao that's been around for years, situated in a renovated 17th century building. Choose from a show with dinner or just a drink (cheaper) in a cozy atmosphere where you can get a close view of a show. I saw my first show here some 15 years ago, opening my eyes to mind to the lure of flamenco.
web: tablaoelarenal.com

El Patio Sevillano (Centro - Paseo Colon)
Founded in 1952 and moved to it's current location in 1973, one of the first tablaos in Sevilla. Flamenco shows take place in a typically Andalusian patio and the building is located right next to the Plaza de Toros and the river. Another choice of a show with dinner or just a drink (cheaper option).

web: elpatiodesevilla.com

El Palacio Andaluz (Centro - c/Maria Auxiliadora, 18)
Lights, luxury and a big venue. Located on a large avenue catch a glimpse from an outside to see one of the most upscale tablaos in Sevilla. Another place to choose dinner with the show or just a drink.

Las Brujas (Puerta de Osario/Nervión - c/Gonzalo Bilbao, 10)
Typical Andalusian dishes or a drink can be enjoyed while you watch flamenco.

Los Gallos (Centro - Santa Cruz - Plaza de Santa Cruz)
Founded in 1966, Los Gallos is in the heart of Santa Cruz and a few blocks away from the Jardines Murillo, with 2 shows every night. Again recommended to choose the show with a drink option instead of the dinner.
web: tablaolosgallos.com

Semi Professional to Amateur
As I go down the list it gets harder to distinguish the levels and quality, but here you'll find students or local artists who are very talented and put on great shows. Prices will be much less and in some cases free. One of my favorites is Casa de la Memoria, where you can see an affordable show in a great little venue.

Cafe Cantante Sol
(Santa Catalina - c/Sol)
Another place for a semi-professional show full of talent. Close to Plaza de los Terceros and El Rinconcillo, Sevilla's oldest bar which makes for a great starting point before seeing the show.

Casa de la Memoria
(Santa Cruz -
c/Ximénez de Enciso, 28)
You can see Flamenco on a semi-professional level for 9-11€, with two shows every night. Students at local schools who are very talented perform in the 18th century patio, making it a unique venue for flamenco.

Asociacion Antigua de Sevilla
(Arenal -
c/Castellar, 50)
Gifted amateurs with tickets starting around 3€.

Flamenco in Bars and other locations
From the improvised and exciting to only singing or guitar you can find some great shows with a little neighborhood atmosphere in these places. Some have regular flamenco nights where you can catch a local act. While most - but not all - will lack the professional talent there's plenty of passion in their performances.

Lo Nuestro
(Triana - c/Betis)

A fixture on Calle Betis for years it's a great place for a little flamenco with a group playing just about every night.

La Taberna
(Triana - c/Duarte, 3)

A great place for an improvised show just down the street from Lo Nuestro. Drinks are all you pay, after that sit back and enjoy the flamenco - normally signing and guitar.

Casa Anselma
(Triana - c/Pagés del Corro)
One of the best known bars of the Triana flamenco scene where Sevillanas is common.

Simpecao
(Triana - Paseo de la O - riverwalk)
Take in a little flamenco right on the shore of the river. Improvised and spontaneous, it's a great place to for flamenco in Triana.

La Madrugá
(Triana- c/Salado)
Close to the Plaza de Cuba, live flamenco weekly.

Sevillanas
(Centro - c/Canalejas, across from Hotel Colon)
In between Calle San Eloy in the center and Plaza de Armas.

Taberna Flamenca
(Arenal - c/Adriano)

In the heart of the Arenal nightlife, and close to the Plaza de Toros.

La Carboneria
(Santa Cruz - c/Levies 18)

Famous from it's mention in almost every guide book about Sevilla, it's still worth a trip. Free music, often Flamenco, can be found in the back covered Terraza, popular in the summer and winter. The front bar with a more rustic, winter pub atmosphere includes a piano, stone walls and floors, fireplaces and wooden tables and chairs. A mix of people, from pijo to earthy, spanish to every nationality under the sun, with plenty of Americans if here for only a day or two. Aside from it's reputation as a tourist bar, when there's a live act and I've got a friend in town they always come away liking the place.

Lola de los Reyes
(Los Remedios - Avda Blas Infante)
More upscale clientele in Los Remedios.

El Rejoneo
(Los Remedios - Avda. Blas Infante)
Don't be afraid to get up and dance here.

El Tamboril
(Barrio Santa Cruz - Plaza de Santa Cruz)
A bar where you can listen to to a little flamenco, watch or join in with locals dancing Sevillanas.

El Perro Andaluz
(Santa Catalina - c/Bustos Tavera)
Flamenco Thursdays!

Tertulia Flamenca
(Triana - c/Castilla)
Flamenco Fridays!

El Mundo
(Alfalfa - c/Siete Revueltos)

Flamenco Tuesdays!

 

You can buy tickets online mainly from TickTackTicket.com for the big shows in Andalucia. Serviticket also sells concert tickets for a lot of Spain, especially in the north. Both sell tickets to other events as well. Viajes El Corte Ingles often also sells tickets to events, although less for concerts and more for theatre, dance and other performances.

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Editor: Jeff Spielvogel
© 2004 JS