INSIDER'S GUIDE: Los toros - Bullfighting in Seville

A bullfight, or corrida de toros, is something enjoyed or loathed by visitors and Spaniards alike. Some may demand I take a stand on the issues but...I have been to two bullfights in my life and yes there is come cruelty but I enjoyed them much more in person than I thought I would. Think of it what you may bullfighting is a tradition in Sevilla and the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza is perhaps the best venues in all of Spain to watch the event. The season doesn't last long and there are some differences in the events held.

There is much to be said of the origins of bullfighting, or corrida, from the history of sacrificing bulls in ancient Greece through Roman times there have been many who point to an evolution of the event to a point where it reached Spain. From the 8th century to the 15th there is a history of the corrida taking place for Kings and royalty, eventually changing from a fight on horseback to one on foot. In later years it was not uncommon for an informal corrida to take place in the towns in Spain in a plaza which was blocked off forming what was to later become the ring. In the late 18th century the town of Ronda constructed the first venue specific to the event and the Plaza de Toros in the town still stands, although bullfights no longer take place there.

There are many books and web sites about bullfighting which can do a much better job explaining the interworkings of a corrida. If you wish to learn the detail and nuances of there is much to read. I am better off giving you the basics from my limited understanding. Six bulls are generally part of the corrida with three toreros for the event, each with the task of killing two bulls. At the beginning all participants are introduced and in a bit of ceremony the keys are petitioned to open the doors of the bull's pen. Once the bull is released, hopefully running directly into the ring rather than meandering his way around, the "fight" portion begins. This is essentially divided into the parts, or tercios: the first tercio involves the torero using the purple and yellow cape, or capote. A portion of this first part is dedicated to the picaderos, two men on horseback who use a spear or lance which they use to weaken the bull (essentially affecting the muscles and tendons which keeps the bull from being able to raise it's head easily in a dangerously high position). Thankfully the horses wear protective gear!

The second part is called the suerte de banderillas in which the banderilleros have the challenge of sticking flags in the bulls back as he is charging them. There are three banderilleros, each required to stick two flags into the bull. The final phase is the known as the suerte suprema, in which the torero makes use of what we are accustomed to seeing - a red cape, or muleta. After showing off his skills, passion and dominance of the bull he must face the bull down and kill it with his sword as it charges towards him. A quick kill is a sign of true skill while several attempts means the torero loses the praise of the crowd. If the torero does well he may be awarded the ear of the bull, which he may throw to the crowd. The person sitting in front of me caught it one time and wrapped it up to take home - who knows what they did with it!

The Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza was constructed over the late-17th and 18th centuries and is one of the most famous venues in all of Spain to take in a bullfight. On a side note: before the construction of the Plaza de Toros corridas In Sevilla were held in the Plaza de San Francisco which was specially prepared for the events. Located on the Paseo de Colon, in the center and alongside the river Guadalquivir, it's hard to miss The Plaza de Toros with it's baroque facade, painted white with yellow trim. The ring is oval in shape rather than a perfect circle, a detail which can be seen well from the Giralda. In the beginning of the 20th century the Plaza de Toros was renovated by architect Aníbal Gonzalez, who is perhaps best know for his design of the Plaza de España. Gonzalez also added several of the buildings around the main structure including the Museo de la Real Maestranza de Sevilla, the chapel or capilla, as well as the social quarters for the Real Maestranza de Caballería. The Museum holds a number of posters, clothing and other items related to bullfighting in the city of Sevilla. Included among the exhibits is a cape painted by Picasso.

Bullfights begin with the end of Semana Santa on the Domingo de Resurección, which generally falls in April. From that Sunday there is a short break and then through the Feria de Abril you can see a bullfight every day. After the Feria there are less frequent corridas with the season practically ending before July, with the exception of late September when there are two bullfights during the Feria de San Miguel and one event to be decided on October 12th. This is the official schedule, and each year a few additional events pop up on the calendar. Tickets can be purchased at the Plaza de Toros itself or in some of the ventas for events in the city one of which is located on Calle Tetuan in the main shopping district. Seats are divided into sombra, or shade which is the best option; sol, or sun which worst option where you will sweat while staring into the sun; or sol y sombra (sun and shade - you get a bit of both as the sun moves and this is a good middle ground. Prices will depend on your decision, the toreros and whether it is an actual corrida de toros (the big bulls and hence the better toreros) or a novillada (smaller bulls with less experienced toreros).