Tapas Bars in Seville

There are two basic types of dining out in Sevilla: going for tapas (small portions generally between 1,50-4€) or heading to a restaurant for a more traditional meal. This section covers the many bars and restaurants where you can practice tapeando, or going out for tapas. This is not to say you can't order a plate of food in many tapas bars: you will see groups sharing a ración (plate) or media ración (half-plate) of the same dishes. And in many of the good restaurants you can order tapas at the bar. This is a nice way to try some excellent food without paying the full price of a sit down dinner or lunch. As you will see, these two types of dining out in Seville kind of blend together. In the tapas section I will list a number of restaurants which also appear in the restaurant section, but in this case I will try to cover experience of of tapas separately. Generally this means space at the bar, price, what is on the tapas menu and perhaps not always on the dinner or lunch menu. Finally, there has been a noticeable change in the offering of tapas over the last 5-10 years in Seville, with vegetarian and international dishes appearing on more and more menus. I keep hearing that Spain is impossible for a vegetarian and that's simply not true. If you get to know the right places and dishes you'll see there is plenty to eat. That's not to say vegetarian dishes are everywhere, but they're much easier to find now.

I am slowly putting the finishing touches on my menu reader, one which is more specific to Seville, but will also help you when dining out in many parts of Spain. Once finished, I will place a link in this section. For now you can refer to the food dictionary in either English to Spanish, or Spanish to English.

The purpose of this intro is to describe how this section is organized, what the little symbols mean and a little note on how to read the addresses. The listings are broken down by neighborhood, and at the top of each section I offer a small description of the location. Listings go from more expensive to cheap. You will see the following symbols used:

: Price, from 4 (expensive) to 1 (cheap), this is to offer an idea of the price range.
: Address of the establishment. Important note: "c/" means "Calle", as in "Street".
: Telephone, if available. Many do not have listings in phone books nor offer business cards.
: Web page, if available.
: Type of food. This is a tough one, and I have used my own system of classifying. It is certainly easy to tell you if food comes from a certain region. In many cases I have used such words as "New Cuisine" (applying new techniques from the cooking schools in Spain) or "Creative" to describe a higher level of creativity in the recipes. There are also regional classifications, as well as "Andalusian" and "Typical Andalusian", with "Typical Andalusian" something like going out for tapas in my mother-in-law's kitchen (good, home-cooked, and little variation from the typical dishes of this region). Two notes to keep me alive if my mother-in-law should read this: 1) nowhere on earth, including the best bars in Seville, will you find cooking as good as in her house, and 2) little variation is a good thing.

El Centro can mean a lot of things to people, but I refer to it as around the main shopping district, close to calles Sierpes and Tetuan and Plaza del Duque. It borders the Alfalfa, Santa Cruz, Arenal and Alameda neighborhoods.

Casa Cuesta |
: c/ Zaragoza 50 (near Plaza Nueva). : 954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
: Andalusian.
The Casa Cuesta location in Triana has a history of over 100 years (founded in 1880). The location in the center has a history of less than a year! Still, the folks at Casa Cuesta have of course benefited from running a restaurant and tapas bar for more than a century, and that experience shows in the new location. My recommendation would be to arrive early, as the bar area for tapas is much smaller than the Triana location. Once you get a spot at the bar, take a look at the long list of tapas covering just about every genre: pescado (fish), mariscos (shellfish), carnes (meat), chacina (cured meats such as jamón, caña de lomo, chorizo) and a number of specials.

La Alacena de San Eloy |
: c/ San Eloy 31. : 954 215 580
: Andalusian / Wine bar
Maybe the best wine selections in a tapas bar in all of Seville. Opened in early 2005, this is the original location with and orange interior and perhaps worse decoration than the location on calle Aguilas. With either location it is recommended to forget the color and take a seat. If you prefer a smoke-free atmosphere take a seat in the wine cellar itself. Well, it's really just a glass-enclosed, climate controlled room with a few tables. This place is often packed so the seating wanders around to some interesting locations behind the bar. Some very good, and original, tapas to go with the wine itself. Some tapas even come with their own wine, which must be sipped to bring out the true flavor of the food. If you are closer to the Alfalfa try the location on calle Aguilas (see just below). A note for sidra (cider) lovers, as there are two common types you can find in Seville: a natural more cloudy, and less sweet type, as well as a sweeter, clearer kind, similar to many of the bottled ciders. Here you will be served the more natural and less sweet kind, one I have had a hard time liking...

Bar Santa Marta |
: Plaza San Andrés. :
: Typical Andalusian
My question is – does this place hold the world’s record for the largest flamenquin? I think they might, at least for one regularly served in a bar. What is a flamenquin? It’s pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese that is deep fried. This one is at least a foot long. Other recommended dishes include solomillo whisky, arroz (on Saturdays and Sundays), and the frito variado. The plaza de San Andrés is one of my favorite outdoor spots to sit and eat – very large with plenty of people passing by, and a church as the backdrop. The owner, Rafael, has to be one of the nicest fellows around, and also owns Apartments San Andres, a great place to stay in Seville.

Cafe Bar La Universal |
: Plaza Salvador. :
: Andalusian / Creative
Right off of Plaza Salvador, Cafe Bar La Universal is a popular spot which is often packed. They have some not so typical tapas and foods to choose from and outdoor seating is the best (inside they somehow always have the heat on). Tables outside wrap around the corner bar. One waiter in particular is known for his never-ending sense of humor - you'll know when you get him.

• fideitos de Cádiz (noodles, olive oil and garlic)
• tortilla de verduras (omelet with vegetables)

Lizarran |
: Javier Lasso de la Vega, 14. : 954 909 199. : lizarran.com
: Northern Spain
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? Well, it's a fun chain restaurant and an interesting way to enjoy tapas. Make your way inside and get a seat at the bar or a table and grab a plate. Then help yourself, literally, to anything you want to eat. There are always a number of cold tapas along the bar , with the hot ones coming out of the kitchen (listen for the bell, and then the waiters bring the hot ones around to everyone). Everything is on a slice of bread with a toothpick. When you're done they count the toothpicks - the flat ones cost less than the round ones - and give you your bill. As for the tapas there are tons to choose from: sausages, chicken, seafood, ham, chorizo, vegetables...even a spring roll. Basically if they can fit it on a piece of bread they will serve it up! If you are choosing locations, I would recommend the one in Nervión over the one in the center. In Nervión there are more customers. Thus more of the hot tapas come from the kitchen than the center location.

Blanco Cerillo |
: c/ Jose de Velilla. :
: Andalusian
They have some other tapas as well, but why bother when they have perfected boquerones en adobo. If I had to pick one food for the rest of my life it would be this. The bar is very small and outdoor seating may be a few minutes wait on a nice day. Same (and the only) waiter, Emilio, has been there for over 10 years. I make sure I go almost once a week. Boquerones are best ordered in tapa or media ración, and it's your choice with homemade mayo or without. Sadly, we don't see Emilio working the tables outside anymore, and wonder where he is. He was my favorite sevillista, and always took good care of us.

• boquerones en adobo con mayonesa (fried little fish marinated in vinegar, garlic and spices)
• pavia (ok, had to add one more - this is merluza, or hake, lightly fried)

El Patio de San Eloy |
: c/ San Eloy 9. :
: Andalusian
As typical a Sevillian atmosphere as you can get once inside. The lower level is large and open, with ceramic tile benches/bleachers in the back where you can sit down and munch on olives or little sandwiches (montaditos). A large number of these montaditos and sandwiches are sacked high behind the bar, ready to be heated up and served (though one wonders about the freshness without refrigeration). Surrounding the bar are several groups of tables. Upstairs there is a dining area, but no real dining goes on in this place. In fact, I really recommend this as a place for a cold beer. The waiters always seem friendly enough, but after having seen them pull the bad part of a piece of jamón off a montadito before heating it up (more than a few times), I'm not too "keen" on eating much aside from the olives.

La Flor de mi Viña |
: c/ Jose de Velilla. :
: Andalusian
Just try and find this place. If you do, you're in luck. I recommend ordering a plato - 3 to 4€ - for the best value. Still, everything eaten in La Flor de mi Viña - whether plato or tapa - is done tapas style: consumed at the bar or little tables with stools (no chairs). Frequented by a lot of people who work in El Corte Inglés or other nearby businesses. I think there are 6 or 7 brothers who work behind the bar, all sharing a family resemblance. Very attentive and nice folks. This was dubbed bar barato by my sister and brother-in-law a while back. This is good standard Andalusian cooking at very good prices.

• solomillo whisky (pork in brandy and garlic sauce)
• choco a la riojana (squid)
• arroz (rice)
• albondigas (meatballs - not the italian kind)
• pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken)
• urta con tomate (fish)

Bodegon Alfonso XII |
: c/ Alfonso XII 33. : 954 211 251
: Typical Andalusian
Near the Museum of Bellas Artes. They have a very large menu and a good amount of indoor seating, as well as a menu in English. Tapas can be ordered at the tables or the bar, which makes it an easy place to sit and enjoy a tapa or two. The regular bartenders are nice fellows, some of whom I remember from 12 years ago. If you like garlic and mayo, order patatas a la brava - just about the best in the center. And they always have arroz (rice) - every day.

• patatas a la brava (potatoes with garlic mayo and hot sauce)
• arroz (rice)
• flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
• chipirón a la plancha (grilled squid)
• solomillo al whisky (pork in brandy or whisky and garlic)

Bodeguita del Salvador |
: Plaza Salvador 6. : 954 561 833
: Andalusian
More of a place to drink a beer on Saturday or Sunday afternoon in Plaza Salvador. People crowd into the bar to get a drink and then make their way outside into the plaza or on the steps of the church, often sharing a table with others. Some days it can be difficult to make your way to the bar, but few other bars have tables in the same plaza. More recently you'll find some kind of live music outside.

• cerveza!
• jamón (ham)
• aceitunas (olives)
• queso (cheese)
• montaditos (sandwiches - various)

Los Soportales |
: Plaza Salvador 7. :
: Andalusian
More of a place to drink a beer on Saturday or Sunday afternoon in Plaza Salvador. Didn't I just say that? This bar happens to be 30 centimeters, maybe less, from Bodeguita del Salvador, and on many days, if one of them is too crowded, I go to the other. They are so close they almost seem like the same bar. Offering a few tapas and similarly cold beer, the only difference may be the type of glasses used at each bar. Don't be surprised if you find yourself visiting both in the same trip without noticing.

The Alfalfa is the area just above Plaza Salvador (on a map, and maybe the only hill in the center) leading up to calle Aguilas and ending around Plaza Encarnación. It borders the shopping district, Santa Cruz, Santa Catalina and Puerta Carmona.

La Alacena de San Eloy |
: c/ Aguilas. :
: Andalusian / Wine bar
Maybe the best wine selections in a tapas bar in all of Seville. Opened in August 2005, the second location is just a few blocks from Plaza Alfalfa. The first location opened earlier in 2005 on Calle San Eloy. There is a large selection of good tapas, but no non-smoking section in this location. Some of the tapas even come with their own wine which must be sipped to bring out the true flavor of the food. A note for sidra (cider) lovers, as there are two common types you can find in Seville: a natural more cloudy, and less sweet type, as well as a sweeter, clearer kind, similar to many of the bottled ciders. Here you will be served the more natural and less sweet kind, one I have had a hard time liking...

Bar Europa |
: c/ Siete Revuelta 35 / Plaza del Pan. : 954 221 354
: Andalusian / Basque
A block behind Iglesia Salvador, they always have tables in the Plaza del Pan. Tapas range from traditional to a little experimentation. A little pricey, especially considering some of the portions are very small (I swear my last tapa of solomillo had two pieces, each the size of a two euro coin). But the food is very good - a great place to stop when you're finishing up the day in the shopping district and want a small tapa. But if you come looking to fill up make sure you have enough cash!

• salmorejo (thicker, sweeter gazpacho)
• croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
• espinacas (stewed spinach with garbanzos)
• butifarra (sausage from the north!)

Café Bar Habanita |
: c/ Golfo, 3. : 954 220 202
: Cuban / Vegetarian / International
This comes up in the vegetarian and Cuban sections for it’s selection of veggie and vegan friendly dishes. But there’s also meat! Plus this place deserves a mention in several sections. Cuban favorites like ropa vieja and a host of original drinks are a good reason to dine in La Habanita. It is located down an alley in a small “plaza” away from the noise of the Alfalfa. Several tables are outside, in plain view of a very hungry dog who is often salivating over the tapas from his first floor apartment. Inside you'll find a decent sized dining room. A well-translated menu (color coded for English and Spanish) and some experienced English speakers who work the tables make this friendly for travelers. And I challenge you to sit for lunch without seeing at least one group of tourists.

• alcachofas (artichokes served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil)
• revuelto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms)
• solomillo con dátiles y bacon (pork loin cooked with dates and bacon)
• croquetas de roquefort (roquefort croquettes)
• mojito (rum, sugar, mint lemon and more in what is perhaps the city's best mojito)

El Refugio | -
: c/ Huelva 5. :
: Argentinean
All good things come to an end, and while we hoped they were just renovating the place it looks like it changed ownership. Gone are the carañacas and with it their secret recipe and the collection of key chains from around the world, hanging on the wall (I never got to add mine!). The new place is decent and they offer some vegetarian dishes along with grilled meats. They also serve up quesadillas the way you may think of them back home - not in a cazuela but between two pieces of flour tortilla. Try the parrillada for a mixed grill of two types of sausage, two kinds of beef and chicken. The menu del día also is very reasonable for a full meal at lunch.

Bar Alfalfa | -
: Plaza Alfalfa. :
: International / Italian
Spanish take on Italian food? One of the owners must be Italian, and while they offer a few general spanish tapas, they also offer plenty tapas with more Italian flavor. This is a small corner bar with a nice atmosphere, but it get's crowded easily and table space is often hard to come by. But the view is one of my favorite people watching spots, just at the entrance to Plaza Alfalfa with plenty of chaos to keep my eyes busy.

• pan de la casa (like bruschetta, if I'm spelling that right)
• provolone... (it's fried provolone in a cazuela)
• mozzarella de búfalo (buffalo mozzarella)
• surtido de quesos (cheese plate)

Coloniales | -
: Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19. :
: Andalusian
Inside and outside seating, but if you want to eat outside get there early and put your name on the chalk board. Some days you may wait 30 minutes, but you can always eat at the bar or the dining room in the back. Tapas range from 1,75 - 3,50€ but they are HUGE, which makes eating at Coloniales very cheap. These folks may be the gods of sauces - try the solomillo in perhaps seven different ways. I have yet to eat anything in Coloniales I don't like, and have often thought of giving up cooking at home. I likely would if the wait weren't so long.

• solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
• solomillo al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
• solomillo a la castellana (pork loin with garlic, serrano ham and mushrooms)
• champiñones rebozados (fried mushrooms stuffed with ham and chorizo)
• tostadas / pan de la casa (various breads covered with different toppings)
• pollo con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond sauce)
• manjar blanco (chicken in sauce)
• calamares del campo (fried green pepper and onion - not squid)
• prueba de chorizo (cooked chorizo)
  

Bar Manolo |
: Plaza Alfalfa. :
: Typical Andalusian
One of my all-time favorites, as Bar Manolo was the first place I tried anything en adobo. Located in the Alfalfa with a good amount of outdoor seating, although tables can be hard to come by on a nice night. Tapas, media raciones and raciones are all generous in size, and very reasonably priced: 1,30 - 2€. This is a favorite for locals and the menu is about as straight Andalusian as you can get. I think of it like a Sevillian soul food restaurant. No pretty presentation, just large portions of home-cooked food. The serranito, a sandwich of pork loin, ham, green tomatoes and a fried green pepper, is one of the best in the city. How they get the whole thing on the bread and keep it so tender, well that's one of life's little mysteries.

• gambas rebozadas (fried shrimp)
• pavia de merluza (fried hake - fish - loin)
• solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
• gazpacho
• gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp in shells)
• serranito (sandwich: pork loin, ham, green tomatoes and a fried green pepper)

Bar Kiko |
: c/ Herbolarios, 17. :
: Typical Andalusian
Mom and pop bar with great tapas. Two dining rooms - one I like to call the "fire trap" as it is located behind the kitchen with no other exit. The other is a bit larger and located next door. A few tables are outside as well. If you eat one thing here make it the lagrimitas de pollo. This is another place in the Alfalfa where the menu is very typical Andalusian food. Tapas range from 1,50 - 2,50€. And don't be fooled by the Sevilla and Betis football team crests hanging behind the bar. They're trying to accommodate everyone, but they are all sevillistas! Still, one can make an exception to sample some home-cooked food, and they are very nice people.

• lagrimitas de pollo (chicken marinated in vinegar - "adobo-like")
• croquetas (croquettes)
• san jacobo (ham and cheese deep-fried)
• pisto (stew)

Arenal is the neighborhood between the Cathedral and the river, beginning at Avda. Constitución and ending at the river and the bridges leading to Triana and Los Remedios. It borders the Plaza de Armas / San Pablo neighborhood.

La Isla |
: c/ Arfe 25. : 954 215 376
: Andalusian / Galician
Perhaps one of the best places to try any kind of seafood, and on several occasions we have spotted the members of Real Betis eating in La Isla. While this will cost you more than your average restaurant in Seville, the quality of the seafood is the best in the city and brought in from the coast everyday. I highly recommend dining for a full meal in La Isla, but you can also try a few tapas at the bar without the full price.

Sierra Mayor |
: c/ Joachin Guichot 5. : 954 561 210
: Andalusian / Extremaduran
A great place to go for a variety of famous jamón and cured meats such as chorizo, caña de lomo...you name it: if it's cured pig, it's in Sierra Mayor. The fuentes (platters) give you a chance to try a little bit of everything, although it can be a little expensive. Tapas range from 1,80 - 3,00€. A large bar area with a number of tables generally mean there is plenty of space. The tables outside tend to go first on a nice night. During the holidays they hang little pig ornaments with a Santa hat on them: the front shows the typical smiling pig. The back-side appropriately shows his butt.

• fuente de sierra mayor (a little of everything in the cured meat department)
• fuente de queso (many cheeses)
• croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
• tostada o pan de la casa (various breads/toast with choice of toppings)

Meson de la Infanta |
: c/ Dos de Mayo, 26. : 954 561 554
: Andalusian
Just about everything is good, especially the cured meats such as the mouthwatering jamón. Just down the street from the Teatro Maestranza, they offer a typical spanish menu, a large bar and an historic atmosphere. When coming from the Cathedral look for the ceramic tile with the Infanta.

La Moneda |
: c/ Almirantazgo 4. : 954 223 642
: Andalusian
Not far from the cathedral and post office as you enter the Arenal. More expensive, and tapas are smaller, but very good. Expect a more upscale crowd here - I saw some local actors come in who were treated like royalty as we were passed over, but not for long. The service tends to be pretty good.

• garbanzos con bacalao (fish and garbanzo stew)
• langostinos con bacon (shrimp wrapped in bacon)
• pez espada empanado (fried swordfish)

Casablanca |
: c/ Zaragoza 50. : 954 224 698
: Andalusian / Innovative
While there isn’t much space, the bar is known for it’s tapas and crowds. Get here a little early and then be prepared to eat your tapas in a small, or shall we call it "intimate", atmosphere. Recommended by my family members, many guide books and people sending me emails. This is a fine example of a good, and perhaps a little expensive, restaurant where you can save some money by sampling the menu at the bar with tapas.

El Rincón del Pulpo Gallego |
: c/ Harinas 21. : 954 224 311
: Galician / Asturian
Great Galician bar. Don't be fooled by other ones in Seville as this is the only place to go (especially not the one close to Plaza del Duque, where they served me up a nice piece of metal with my tapa, told me "these things happen", and then charged me for it after I spent 10 minutes in the bathroom dislodging the piece of metal from my throat). Ok, so that happened SOMEWHERE ELSE. You won't find that at El Rincón Gallego. Instead drink the sidra - an alcoholic cider typical of Asturias but also served in Galicia. This is the sweeter type of sidra, and my favorite. My tapa favorites are chorizo criollo, mejillones al vapor and of course the pulpo. Tapas range in price from 1,75 - 2,75€. Look for the purple octopus on the sign outside and you're there. Damn! They took away the purple pulpo. So just look for the sign.

• empanada de atún (tuna empanada - accept no other)
• pulpo gallego (octopus served with boiled potatoes)
• mejillones al vapor (steamed mussels)
• berberechos al vapor (steamed clams, or similar to clams)
• bacalao a la gallega (fish with a few veggies)
• chorizo criollo (homemade sausage served with sauce)
• sidra (cider)

Bodeguita Romero |
: c/ Harinas 10. : 954 229 556
: Andalusian
Another place which is worth a stop just for their specialty – a montadito de pringa, a mixture of very tender roasted pork mixed with a small amount of the ever so tasty tocino (hog fat) and morcilla (blood sausage). Sounds scarier than it really is. And once you take a bite you simply won't care what's in it. Other tapas are on the menu and good, but nothing beats the specialty of the house.

• montadito de pringa (pork sandwich)

Bar Hijos de E. Morales |
: c/ Garcia de Vinuesa :
: Andalusian
Just a block behind the large Horno San Buenaventura on Avda. Constitución, this could be the twin to El Rinconcillo. Of interest are the two sides of the bar with separate entrances. The corner location has high ceilings, shelves with plenty of liquor bottles and the old wooden bar just like El Rinconcillo. The other side is darker, with some seating and floor to ceiling height clay containers that at one point likely stored wine or other alcoholic refreshments. Montaditos are the specialty with a cold beer or a glass of fino.

Casa de Extremadura |
: c/ Fernandez y Gonzalez 14. : 954 225 606
: Extremaduran
Think of it as a bar/restaurant/cultural center, although the front looks just like a bar. The back is a socios (members) area complete with a TV, tourist information for Extremadura and a home like atmosphere. The front is a nice place for tapas, a meal or the menu del día, which we tried for a little under 7 Euros. Excellent homemade food from the region, noticeable in the cocido we enjoyed - a stew complete with garbanzos, some vegetables, morcilla (blood sausage), pork and tocino (fat!). A very good meal for a reasonable price.

Freiduría La Isla |
: c/ Garcia de Vinuesa. :
: Andalusian / Pescaito Frito
Having moved from a side street and renovated to provide a bright, clean interior on a street corner, Freiduría La Isla is just a block from the Cathedral as you enter the Arenal neighborhood. At least once you should experience one of these places, where fried seafood is served up by weight or quantity in round paper cones. Take your pick from gambas rebozadas (shrimp), calamares (squid), adobo (fish marinated in vinegar and spices), huevas (fish eggs, fried of course), pescada (fish) and croquetas (croquettes, about the only thing on the menu without fish). Then order a few bottles of Cruzcampo or a can of Coke and enjoy. Freiduría La Isla is a good location (most freidurías in Seville are less central), and there is some seating if you choose to eat immediately. If not take it home with you, but run - it's better to eat this hot than cold.

On the opposite side of the Cathedral from the Arenal, Santa Cruz is the neighborhood behind the Alcazar and Cathedral bordering Menéndez Pelayo and the Jardines Murillo. It also borders the Alfalfa neighborhood and Puerta Carmona.

El Modesto |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 5. : 954 416 811
: Andalusian
One word for everything: delicious. Located near the Jardines de Murillo with a little space at the bar and a lot of outdoor seating. A more formal dining room is located upstairs, but you can eat tapas at the bar for a reasonable price. And for what you get it's really not that expensive. I think the coquinas, or little clams, are likely the best in Sevilla. We've also enjoyed the gambas al ajillo, shrimp cooked with olive oil, garlic and hot peppers. Don't be afraid to make barquitos when you order this - that is, throw in little bits of bread to soak up the sauce. A frito variado is always a good choice, where you are served 4 to 5 types of fish including calamares del campo, which despite their name are not fish, rather fried onions and green peppers. Finally solomillo al whisky is excellent here, and it's my weakness when we dine out.

• frito variado (sampler of fried fish)
• fritura el modesto (fried onions, green peppers and shrimp)
• solomillo whisky (pork loin cooked in brandy or whisky)
• coquinas (little clams)
  

Casa Roman |
: c/ Jamerdana / Plaza de los Venerables, 1. : 954 228 483
: Andalusian
If you are looking for a little more upscale, but not too upscale, this is a great bar in the heart of Santa Cruz, located just next to the Hospital de los Venerables. You know it's not too upscale because of the tables with little stools that appear to be made for seating hobbits. The jamón comes highly recommended, by both my family and the stranger next to me at the bar who thought I was a lost foreigner having a hard time reading the menu. I also recommend the carillada (stewed pork) and queso (cured manchego cheese). A number of outside tables are available with a nice view of the plaza and other diners. There’s just something about the atmosphere – decoration inside and the feel of the pedestrian street outside – which makes this a great place to be.

Bar la Estrella |
: c/ Estrella 3. : 954 561 426
: Andalusian / Creative
What isn't good in Bar Estrella I don't know. It is tucked away in a back street between the Alfalfa and Santa Cruz, and offers 4 or 5 tables for outside dining which are almost out of sight of the bar. Inside there's a bar area with a few tables as well as a separate dining room. There is also a very long list of tapas, including some specials scribbled on the chalk board. Offering traditional spanish food they also mix it up with a few more exotic recipes. With tapas ranging from 1,80 - 4€, this is highly recommended (and a favorite location for locals).

• langostinos con aguacate (A half of an avocado stuffed with large prawns and covered with sauce)
• camembert frito - (fried camembert with raspberry jam)

Bar Las Teresas |
: c/ Santa Teresa, 2. : 954 213 069
: Andalusian
Between the Cathedral and the Plaza Santa Cruz you will find a very picturesque intersection of pedestrian streets, with a number of little bars. Las Teresas lies on a corner, offering tapas and cold fino in an historic setting. The walls are covered with photos of famous people, bullfighting memorabilia, and a few curious antique restaurant and bar utensils. Tapas range from 2 - 4€. Seems to be a perfect place to stop for a cold drink and a tapa as you pay a visit to the Santa Cruz quarter.

Las Columnas (Bodega Santa Cruz) |
: c/ Rodrigo Caro / corner of c/Mateos Gago. :
: Typical Andalusian
Close to the Cathedral with a sign that reads Bodega Santa Cruz. Don't believe it - everyone here calls it Las Columnas. There are a few tables inside and outside but in general very little seating. People tend to crowd around the bar to order tapas while the bartenders keep their tab running on the bar in grease pencil. Most of the bartenders have been in Las Columnas forever and are accustomed to helping foreigners with their order, even if it means simply pointing to the chalk board. The chaotic pace of the place means their patience has a limit: don't be surprised if they walk away as you decide, only to come back in 20 seconds to see if you are ready. Always a mix of lost looking tourists and locals. Tapas are between 1,40 - 2,20€, and if you tip you may see them throw it through the Chicago Bulls nerf hoop and into the pot. Damn, they renovated and the nerf hoop is gone. Hooray - they added a refrigerated room to keep the Cruzcampo extra cold! I have dreams about the ensaladilla at night...

• ensaladilla (potato salad with tuna, crab, peas, carrots)
• flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
• pinchito de cerdo (brochette of seasoned pork)
• montaditos (grilled sandwiches - various)
• gazpacho
• pollo frito (fried morsels of chicken)

La Fresquita |
: c/Mateos Gago, 30 :
: Andalusian
Follow Mateos Gago until you see the Santa Cruz church, and just opposite is La Fresquita. It's not uncommon to hear processional music year round in this bar, and incense is frequently burning. Inside there are plenty of pictures from Semana Santa, someone serving up fino and cerveza. A few tables are also outside, as the bar is a small one. Espinacas, aged manchego cheese and montaditos are the tapas of choice.

Santa Catalina is the area around the Iglesia Santa Catalina, bordering around Plaza Encarnación, the Alfalfa, Puerta Carmona and Puerta Osario. To the back bordering calle Feria, the Alameda and Macarena neighborhoods.

El Rincóncillo |
: c/ Gerona 40 / Plaza de los Terceros. : 954 223 183
: Typical Andalusian
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670, and if you visit just one place in Santa Catalina, make it here! The current owners are on their 8th generation dating back to 1800 or so. You can never enter without seeing a tourist, so don't expect that great discovery: an off the beaten path tapas bar. El Rinconcillo has a positively wonderful atmosphere, including a museum-like collection of (still full) bottles of liquor, some as old as 70 - 80 years. They say representatives from the liquor companies visit every so often to try and buy the older bottles - but they're not parting with them. A new addition is a more elegant dining room upstairs in the old employee sleeping quarters, which offers complete restaurant service. Downstairs is almost all tapas and raciones as you slide up to the bar or one of the large barrels. Two small dining areas at the back offer a quick dinner (no tapas). Despite the fame, the food is cheap - tapas range in price from 1,60 - 3 €. Some of the coldest beer in town as well as the normal bar offerings: fino, vino dulce and a strange house wine.

• jamón (ham)
• espinacas (cooked spinach)
• pavia de bacalao (fried loin of cod)
• bacalao con tomate (fish with tomato)
• caldereta (meat stew)
• queso (cured manchego cheese)
• caña de lomo (cured pork)

La Giganta |
: Plaza de los Terceros - c/ Alhóndiga, 6. : 954 210 975
: Andalusian / Creative
Another Santa Catalina favorite – I love my neighborhood because just about every bar serves good food! Some original recipes including wild mushrooms, chicken in a variety of sauces, the ever popular solomillo (again with a choice of sauces) as well as specials just about every day. Also known for the house toasts (tostadas de la casa), which doesn't translate into English well. La Giganta is known for their sauces. When the weather is nice they have seating outside next to Iglesia Santa Catalina. When it's cold but dry they use the outdoor heaters so you can still eat outside.

La Huerta |
: Plaza de los Terceros. :
: Andalusian / International / Vegetarian
Just down the street from my apartment with lots of outdoor seating and very friendly owners. They offer some nice alternatives to the normal tapas you find in Seville, as well as a lot of vegetarian friendly dishes. The tabla de patatas comes with three amazing sauces. El secreto (shhh..don't tell) is huge. Tapas range from 1,80 - 2,80€. A note to diners in Plaza de los Terceros: there are three possibilities for sitting outside and eating. You should be careful to sit in the correct tables, which then determines what establishment will serve you. Best to ask at La Huerta where to sit, so you know where you'll be eating.

• tabla de patatas con 3 salsas (roast potatoes with 3 dipping sauces)
• tabla de verduras (grilled vegetables)
• quiche de puerros (leak quiche)
• croquetas (choose from cheese, cauliflower, shrimp)
• secreto (pork steak)
• berenjenas con miel (eggplant with honey)

El Colmao |
: Plaza Ponce de Leon, 5. :
: Spanish
This place often gets overlooked in Santa Catalina and the Plaza de los Terceros area. It should not be missed if you like wine and cheese (I know, you Carolina basketball fans may have to overlook this one or swallow your pride). They have a number of wines, be it of the day or of the week, always changing their selection. They also have a very good cheese plate and a seemingly endless menu including tapas, platos para compartir (plates to share), media raciones and raciones. The media ración of ham is a great deal – 6 Euros for what could pass as a ración. And the ham is good, not the cheap stuff. Thankfully the outside tables are now autoservicio (no waiters). A good choice and it makes it cheaper than the 15% service charge they used to have.

Los Claveles |
: Plaza de los Terceros :
: Andalusian
A new favorite watering hole of mine just across the street from El Rinconcillo. I have yet to eat at the bar but I know the woman in the kitchen can cook just by looking at her. Mainly simple tapas to go along with the cold beer. They have done some renovating, but the same old floor is there as is the brick wall from who knows when (it's old). The outside of the bar still sports the old advertisements for fino. The bartenders are always friendly and attentive. Lots of locals from the neighborhood, a good spot to get a cold beer and something to munch on, then head to one of the standing only tables to watch everyone pass by in the plaza. Now complete with a new flat screen television for watching the football matches. Unfortunately the bar is closed on Sunday when most matches are scheduled.

Ajo Blanco |
: c/ Alhóndiga 19. : 954 229 320
: Andalusian / Mexican / Vegetarian
A little alternative in atmosphere, with plenty of Jazz and a few Feria posters hanging on the walls. Music varies from rock to light jazz, and a side business of tading and buying used LPs has appeared. Small number of tables and a little space at the bar to eat. Some dishes have an interesting Mexican twist to them, all offered with a great hot sauce on the side - you'll be warned "la salsa pica!" Prices range from 1.80 - 4€ per tapa. Some tapas, such as the tejano, are very large.

• enchiladas (well, they're enchiladas - try the chicken which is curry flavored)
• tejano con carne picada y frijoles (ground beef or pork plus beans served in a crunchy corn tortilla)
• tarta vegetal con queso azul (vegetable "cake" with blue cheese)
• ensalada de cous cous (cous cous salad)
• ajo blanco (white gazpacho made with almonds)

Rayas |
: c/ Almirante Apodaca 1. : 954 221 746
: Dessert
Ice cream only, but probably the best on earth. Take your pick from maybe 30 - they are all good. 2,50€ for a small and a little more for a medium cup. Exotic flavors whose names I can't pronounce nor write, as well as some good, simple favorites like chocolate, vanilla, and banana! This place is famous and anyone who knows anything about ice cream in Sevilla knows the name Rayas. In winter when it gets cold the shop closes and the owners open their bakery / chocolate shop next door. And not to worry - they still offer ice cream, just a smaller selection.

Puerta Carmona is the area around the intersection of calle Luis Montoto, Avda. Menéndez y Pelayo and calle San Esteban. It borders Santa Cruz, the Alfalfa and Santa Catalina. Crossing the main avenue of Menéndez y Pelayo you reach La Buhaira and Nervión neighborhoods (see below).

Becerrita |
: c/ Reacaredo 9. : 954 412 057. : becerrita.com
: Andalusian / Creative.
The Becerra family is well known in Seville, and Becerrita is a good example of what the family has done well: one generation handing over to the other. Father, Enrique, whose name graces the family restaurant in the Arenal, leaves Becerrita in the hands of his son, Jesús María Becerra. As with Restaurante Enrique Becerra, seasonal/fresh market often appear as specials on the menu. Much like Enrique Becerra, many people come just for the tapas to enjoy great cooking without the cost of a full meal. My favorites are the ensaladilla de langostinos (potato salad with shrimp) as well as the revuelto de chorizo y papas (Sausage and potato with eggs).

Bodega La Extremeña |
: c/ San Esteban 17. : 954 417 060
: Extremadura
Real wood fired grill right behind the bar, although it is currently awaiting renovations so you'll have to live with an electric grill for now. The place for grilled or a la plancha meats. You can even order a pigs face (pestorejo)...mmm...pigs face. The bar area is certainly rustic and makes you think your in some little town in Extremadura. They have a larger, more formal dining room next door where you can't order tapas, but only media raciones or more. Tapa prices in the bar range from 1,75-5€.

• chorizo al infierno (hot chorizo cooked in liquor at your table)
• surtido de queso (sampler of cheeses)
• surtido de chacina (sampler of cured meats)
• surtido de carne (sampler of grilled meats)
• costillas de cerdo (pork ribs)
• presa ibérica (pork loin)
• pluma ibérica (pork loin)
• migas (something like stuffing, only drier)

Further away on Avda. Menéndez Pelayo from Puerta Carmona and Santa Cruz, Puerta Osario borders the Santa Justa, Macarena and Santa Catalina neighborhoods.

Café Bar Eme |
: c/ Osario. :
: Typical Andalusian
Another place with what you’d call a typical Andalusian kitchen, serving up a large and recommended cóctail de mariscos (crab, fish and shrimp served on a bed of lettuce covered with red - Spanish style - cocktail sauce). This is the sweeter variety, not the spicy kind from the U.S. that some of you may be used to. This is another place which comes recommended from a very reliable source (family) but I’ve yet to try.

• cóctail de mariscos (see above description)
• montaditos (assorted little sandwiches)

Rincón del Tito |
: c/ Escuelas Pias. :
: Typical Andalusian
If there were a Bar Manolo II I would give the honor to this place. The menu is about the same, portions a little smaller, but at a very good price. Plenty of outdoor seating along the busy Calle Escuelas Pias.

Quitapesares |
: Plaza de Padre Jeronimo de Cordoba. :
: Typical Andalusian
Local flamenco singer and legend El Peregil owns this bar in Santa Catalina. I often see him shopping for liquor and bar supplies in Supermercado Mas y Mas, just down the street. And when in the bar you always hear him telling a story or two. While tapas can be found, they always appear to be secondary to the beer, and El Peregil himself. That is, this is a good place to have a drink and munch on something as you soak in the atmosphere and chatter of the regulars.