Valentine's Day in Seville
Location: Seville
Dates: 14 February
Seville in itself is a very romantic city, so you shouldn't have a problem locating a nice backdrop to celebrate Valentine's Day or any other special occasion. In this months feature you'll find plenty of ideas for a meal in a cozy bistro or one of the nicer restaurants with all of the extras and services if this is more your style. For hotels I've included some special places which are of course centrally located and include those extra touches of charm and romance. More information in this month's feature.
Rebajas
- Sales!
Location: Just about everywhere
Dates: until end of February
The holiday shopping season is over, and overstock is
officially on sale on 7 January. Stores are clearing inventory for spring and you can't pass a store
without seeing a "Rebajas" sign. Anyway, as January is generally a slow month
in Seville you can take a stroll through the center and find just about anything on sale. Keep an eye out for the good deals!
Día
de Andalucia: Parlamento de Andalucia
Location: across from La Macarena church
Dates: February 28
Once a year you can wander inside this building as the city celebrates the Día
de Andalucia on February 28th. So why do you want to visit? Aside from the political
happenings it's one of the important pieces of Renaissance architecture in Sevilla
with some beautiful patios inside. And it's only once a year that the public
can enter without a previous appointment. I remember back in 1989 the building
was in bad shape - practically abandoned. Fully restored it's worth checking
out!
Carnaval
in Cádiz
Location: Cádiz (an hour or so south
of Sevilla)
Dates: 16-26 February
web: carnavaldecadiz.com
It's known as Mardi Gras in New Orleans and marks 40 days before Lent.
Western Andalucia has taken more of a liking to Carnaval than the rest of the
province. And of all the celebrations in Andalucia the one in Cádiz is
the largest and most famous. 10 days of festivities are planned and in general
a lot of drinking, dressing-up and nightlife happens in the street. Part of
the festivities in Cádiz include parodies of just about anyone famous
- politicians and celebrities are some of the favorites. Choir/musical groups
between five and forty-five in number dress up and play songs, satirizing personalities
and current events. A big competition takes place in Cádiz's Gran Teatro
Falla, where the groups perform in hopes of winning. And did I mention the drinking,
parades, costumes and all night action in the street?
Carnaval
in Isla Cristina
Location: Isla Cristina (province of Huelva)
Dates: 16-26 February
web: Wikipedia Carnaval de Isla Cristina
If you don't make it to Cadiz and want something a little smaller then
head to Isla Cristina. Many small towns in Western Andalucia celebrate Carnaval
but Isla Cristina is perhaps the most well known of the pueblo carnavales.
The town is a small, but important fishing port located where the Guadiana river
meets the Atlantic. Aside from the events there is a nice group of restaurants
and bars to choose from along the water. Many days of festivities are in store
for the town beginning a few days before 3 March.
Diego Rivera, Cubista. De la academia a la vanguardia (1907-1921)
Location: Casa de la Provincia
Dates: 7 September - 30 October
The exhibit from the Mexican Museum of Modern Art features about thirty lesser known paintings by Diego Rivera which come from different collections including the National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Bronfman Collection. The works are date to when the Mexican artist spent many years traveling in Europe. While in Spain he studied artists such as Picasso, Goya and Valle Inclán. The location is the Casa de la Provincia, located between the Cathedral and Alcazar.
Plaza Encarnacion, Market and Parasol are open!
Location: Plaza de la Encarnacion
Dates: now
Almost 40 years of waiting ended this spring, as the finishing touches for the Encarnacion market were being put in place. It's hard to miss the work as you wander a few blocks up from La Campana and the central shopping district. What looks like several giant mushrooms (setas in Spanish) are the towers which will hold an overlook and bar, as well as provide shade for the market. The market officially opened during the holidays, while the museum and overlook opened shortly afterwards. And while there are still the restaurants on top to be completed, you can now shop for food or get a beer at one of the bars in the market, explore the ruins beneath in the Antiquarium (museum), or take the elevator to the top for a splendid view (for non-residents the cost is 1,20 Euros).
Iglesia Salvador Restored
Location: Plaza del Salvador
Dates: now
The renovations and excavations in Sevilla's
most famous baroque church are finally over, with the exception of a few pieces here and there.
The ruins of a mosque and other very important historical items were uncovered below the church.
But now, after five years of excellent overall restoration work, the church itself has returned. Not only are the altars and important pieces of art restored, but there is much more light to see the details. The church almost feels like a small cathedral, and certainly rivals many of those in nearby cities.
Iglesia del Buen Suceso Restored
Location: Plaza del Buen Suceso
Dates: now
This little baroque church is just a few blocks away from the Plaza Alfalfa and Plaza Cristo de Burgos. With works by Domingo Martinez, impressive red marble columns and similarities to Iglesia Salvador and Iglesia San Luis (two of my favorite churches in Seville), this 18th century church is worth a visit. It is only open in the morning and afternoon during misa (mass).
Liga Profesional de Fútbol
Location: Seville
Dates: Sep 2010 - Jun 2011
The Spanish first division schedule is brutally long, especially
when there is no World Cup or European Championships to
be played during the summer. This is good news if you are
visiting and want to catch a match. While you should pull
for Betis, I realize some of you may have a weakness (and it is a very sad weakness) and
need to see a match no matter what. The benefit of having
two teams in Seville means there is a match
almost every weekend.
Betis
vs. Granada
Location: Estadio Benito Villamarin
Dates: 28-29 January
web: www.realbetisbalompie.es
It took more than 35 years for Granada to make it back to first division, and they've started well enough to keep themselves there for another year. Betis will be hoping to keep themselves perfect against Granada after winning 0-1 in Granada early in the season. The game will be important for both to get the second half of the season off to a ghood start.
The Superbowl
Location: Watch in Tex-Mex Bar (calle Placentines)
Dates: 6 February
web: texmexsportsbar.com
The Tex Mex Bar is one of a very few which will stay open until the game ends. However, reservations are highly recommended. The Tex Mex Bar will have drink specials, hot wings for fifty "centimos" and more. Expect the two viewing areas (front bar plus back dining room) to be very full! Again, if you happen to have Digital Plus (Spanish satelite) you can catch the games on Sportmania, Canal Plus Deportes and Canal Plus.
Betis
vs. Athletic Bilbao
Location: Estadio Benito Villamarin
Dates: 11-12 February
web: www.realbetisbalompie.es
Athletic comes into town just a few days before Valentine's Day! But don't expect much love between the two teams this or any year for that matter. Athletic will offer a good match - after all they are one of the few teams which have never been relegated to second division! Both teams will be looking to better their standing in the league table.
XXVIII
City of Seville Marathon
Location: Estadio Olimpico
Dates: 19 February
web: www.imd.sevilla.org
Now in it's 28th year, the Seville City Marathon begins and ends in the Olympic
Stadium just outside the city center. Show up to see them start around 9:30 in
the morning, or finish some 3 - 5 hours later. Many streets will be blocked
so you can likely find a spot around the city to see the action. Good thing it's on a Sunday to keep the traffic problems to a minimum. Many feel this is a good race to begin the season - the flat course and mild February temperatures help.
Cycling: Vuelta a Andalucia
Location: Provinces of Cordoba, Malaga, Jaen, Sevilla...
Dates: 19-23 February
web: www.vueltaandalucia.com
Covering over 780km through Andalucia, the Vuelta de Andalucia makes stops in 5 Andalusian provinces and several cities and towns, including Cordoba, Jaen, Antequera, Alora, Benahavis, La Zubia, Otura and Torrox. Teams from Spain, Holland, Switzerland, Belgium and Russia will compete, featuring many well-known cyclists. The route’s closest point to city Sevilla is normally the nearby town of Ecija, or travel to Cordoba in just 45 minutes on the AVE.
Sevilla
vs. Atletico Madrid
Location: Estadio Sanchez Pizjuan
Dates: 4 March
A key match-up which could have UEFA implications for next year. Atletico seems to have made the right moves in the last few years and have a good team which should challenge Sevilla.
This rivalry has grown and there have been a few clashes between the fans in both stadiums. But the city should welcome plenty of madrileños. I for one welcome them until they come to play Betis ;)
Betis
vs. Real Sociedad
Location: Estadio Benito Villamarin
Dates: 26-27 November
web: www.realbetisbalompie.es
In celebration of Thanksgiving Day (ok, of course they aren't celebrating Thanksgiving) Betis welcomes Real Sociedad on the weekend of 26-27 November. Betis has been going through a rough patch and hopefully by this time things will be straightened out! As bad as it's been for Betis, Real Sociedad has been suffering the most and has found itself at the bottom of the league table for the most of the season so far.
Los Gallos Tablao Flamenco
Location: Plaza Santa Cruz, 11
Dates: Every night (20:00; 22:30)
Reservations: flamencotickets.com
Los Gallos is one of Seville’s oldest tablaos and perhaps one of the best locations: a renovated historic home in the Plaza de Santa Cruz. The venue is smaller than some of the larger tablaos, and puts to use the rustic and traditional architecture of the original building as a backdrop for traditional flamenco performances. Los Gallos has only one options for tickets: Show + Drink.
Book this show.
Auditorio Alvarez Quintero
Location: Calle Alvarez Quintero, 48
Dates: Every night (21:00)
Reservations: flamencotickets.com
Auditorio Alvarez Quintero is a recent addition to the Seville flamenco scene. Located in a recently renovated 18th century building, the location is only a few meters away from the Cathedral. The owners who once lived in the same house have converted the space to include an area for flamenco performances as well as an art gallery and workshop. Auditorio Alvarez Quintero has only one ticket option for the show (no drink or meal services) Book this show.
Museo del Baile Flamenco (Museum of Flamenco Dance)
Location: Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3
Dates: Every night (19:00 weekdays; 19:30 weekends)
Reservations: flamencotickets.com
The Museo del Baile Flamenco (Museum of Flamenco Dance) in Seville was opened a few years ago. This is an impressive venue for some of Seville’s best flamenco in a shorter format. Located in the Santa Cruz quarter, the museum offers shows from Sunday to Thursday, as well as longer weekend shows (Fri - Sat). There are many ticket options, including packages for a visit to the museum and introductory flamenco classes. Book this show.
Tablao El Arenal
Location: Calle Rodo, 7
Dates: Every night (20:00; 22:00)
Reservations: flamencotickets.com
Tablao El Arenal takes its name from the neighborhood in Seville between the Cathedral and the Guadalquivir river. The central location, just a few blocks away from the Maestranza bullring, features a typical 17th century Andalusian building, renovated to offer full dinner and bar service. The flamenco shows last about an hour and a half. Ticket options include the show with a drink, tapas or complete dinner. Book this show.
El Palacio Andaluz
Location: María Auxiliadora, 18-B
Dates: Every night (19:00; 21:30)
Reservations: flamencotickets.com
The venue is a completely renovated warehouse in the city of Seville, offering over 500 square meters of space, including a large stage area, a typical Andalusian Bodega and plenty of tables with full bar and restaurant service. The venue is more of a theatre setting with the largest capacity and stage of any of the tablaos in Seville. Ticket options include the show with drink, tapas or complete dinner. Book this show.
El Patio Sevillano
Location: Paseo Cristobal Colon, 11A
Dates: Every night (19:00; 21:30)
Reservations: flamencotickets.com
What is now El Patio Sevillano began in 1952 when the owners founded "Cortijo el Guajiro", located in the very center of Seville. The owners brought to the stage many talented performers, leading to further success. In its early days El Cortijo featured the young talents of Trini España, Matilde Coral, El Farruco, etc. The venus has moved closer to the river, offering ticket options of show with drink, tapas or full dinner service. Book this show.
Flamenco Shows in Seville
Location: Various venues
Dates: Every day
web: flamencotickets.com
There are a wide variety of daily flamenco shows in Seville, with locations in different parts of the city center. In the section below you will find a list of regularly programmed shows. They range in size from large theatre style (El Palacio Anadaluz) to smaller tablaos (Tablao El Arenal) where a meal is included. Then there are smaller venues with just a drink, from Los Gallos in Santa Cruz to Auditorio Alvarez Quintero and the Flamenco Museum. You can buy tickets in advance through flamencotickets.com. Or see the listing below for flamenco shows in Seville.
Peñas de Guardia
Location: Various "Peñas" (Flamenco Clubs)
Dates: September, October, November
web: sevillafederacionflamenca.es
Peñas are cultural associations, and for flamenco these are some of the best places to see young artists in a more local setting. The "Peñas de Guardia" series features different flamenco performances by local artists each week. Ticket prices are around 6 Euros, and most start times are 22:00. Some of the peñas participating in Seville are: El Chozas, Flamenca Cantes Al Aire, Torres Macarena, Niño Ricardo, El Turruñuelo, Cerro del Águila, and Pies Plomos.
Private art galleries are another great way to see some
local artists and of course out of the ordinary works. Some
are more traditional while others offer more "cutting
edge", if you will. The following galleries almost
always have something on display:
Galería Álvarez Quintero
Location: c/Álvarez Quintero 48
Galería Álvaro
Location: Plaza de Doña Elvira
Galería Nuevoarte 
Location: c/San Vicente, 32
Galería Pepe Cobo
Location: c/Cardenal Cisneros, 5
Galería Haurie
Location: c/Guzman el Bueno, 9
Galería San Vicente
Location: c/San Vicente, 31
Galería Isabel Ignacio
Location: c/Velarde, 9
Galería Rafael Ortiz
Location: c/Marmoles, 12
Galería Full Art
Location: c/Madrid, 4, bajo 1
Galería Margarita Albarrán
Location: c/Meson de Caballeros, 2
More places where you can regularly catch a good show are
below but I don't keep up regularly with the schedule of
all of them. In many of the bars there's no cover - just
pay for your drinks! In some of the smaller concert halls
expect anywhere from 6-20€ depending on the show.
More recommendations to come soon as I spend a few late
nights out looking for the music scene:
Bars
El
Cafetal
(Avda Ciudad Jardin, 5)
A little further out and now in their
tenth year of carrying live acts.
El Perro Andaluz
(Santa Catalina - c/Bustos
Tavera, 11)
Rock, blues, flamenco, country-rock, reggae - they do a
little of everything in the recently renovated local. Nice
bar frequented by local actors and artists in the heart
of Santa Catalina.
La
Carboneria
(Santa Cruz - c/Levies)
More flamenco than anything else, but you can find other
acts in both the front and back room. This bar is famous
and frequented by tourists as well as Spaniards. The front
room often houses works by local artists. In the summer
the back patio is a cool place to be. In the winter the
front room with two fireplaces offers a cozy place to warm
up.
Jazz
Corner
(Buhaira - c/ Juan Antonio Cavestany)
Jazz as Lisa Simpson would like - the "saxamaphone".
But it doesn't stop there, so stop by and check out what
they've got going.
La
Buena Estrella
(Alameda - c/Trajano , 51)
More jazz in Alameda with weekly jam sessions.
Cafe
Naima
(Alameda - c/Conde de Barajas, 2)
Another place in the Alameda to listen to jazz, although
I guess not live. While I received reports that there was
some live stuff going on, I received a correction that it's
only the atmosphere, and never a band, you can find in this
bar.
Pub
Taifa
(Centro - Plaza Gavidia)
Live jazz and blues on Friday and Saturday nights.
Azucar
de Cuba
(Centro - Paseo de Colon)
Right before the bridge to Los Remedios it's another great
place to take in some live Cuban music, sip on a daiquiri
and smoke a cuban cigar. Dinner and lunch is also served
- an authentic Cuban dining experience.
Small "Concert" Halls
Sala
Fun Club
(Alameda)
Local, regional and larger acts. Hip-hop to metal, funk
and alternative.
Weekend
(Centro/Torneo - c/Torneo)
As well a good mix of acts - neighbors have complained for
years about the noise, so they put on some loud shows.
Sala
Salvation
Heavy to alternative and a little of everything else.
Casas
Ocupadas
Alternative music - some punk, some rock.
Larger Venues
Estadio
Olimpico
(across the Puente del Alamillo)
Large acts have made their way here, including Mana. A first
rate outdoor venue where they hope to one day host the Olympics,
if the heat ever dies down.
El
Palenque
(La Cartuja)
Closer to the center of Sevilla than the Estadio Olimpico
and an indoor place for off weather nights. El
Palenque hosts international and national acts frequently.
Teatro
Central
(La
Cartuja)
A mix of the arts with mainly theatre and music performances.
Generally plenty of flamenco and other contemporary music
each month.
Teatro
Lope de Vega
(Arenal)
Aside from opera, theatre and the symphony you'll find an
occasional flamenco performance by some of the best artists
in the world. Very convenient to the center.